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Mediterranean fish stew with saffron mayonnaise

Every French fisherman, Italian grandmother or coastal restaurant has its own recipe for fish stew or soup, and I love to try them all. When it comes to cooking it at home, I adapt the dish to make it suit the fish available. The main thing is to achieve a balance of firm, sweet-fleshed and shelled fish for maximum flavour.
Andrew Montgomery
  • Yield

    Serves 6

Ingredients

For the saffron mayonnaise

2 egg yolks
290ml olive oil
Pinch of saffron, crushed and soaked in 1 tbsp hot water
Lemon juice, to taste

For the tomato base

600g fresh tomatoes
2tbsp olive oil
2 cloves garlic, finely sliced
Pinch of hot chilli flakes

For the shellfish

1tbsp olive oil
600g mussels, cleaned
800g clams, rinsed
200ml light, fruity white wine

For the rest of the stew

12 scallops, removed from shells and cleaned
1tbsp olive oil
600g fillets of firm white fish (such as mullet, bream or gurnard), skin on, cut into finger-size pieces
20g flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

To serve

1 garlic clove, halved
6 large slices of white sourdough, toasted
Olive oil, for drizzling
  1. Method

    Step 1

    For the mayonnaise, put the egg yolks in a bowl and whisk while adding a thin stream of oil until the mixture thickens and emulsifies. Add the saffron and its soaking water, continue to whisk and
    add salt and the lemon juice, 1tsp at a time, tasting for a balance of richness, acidity and saltiness. Refrigerate until needed.

    Step 2

    Put the tomatoes in a bowl and cover with boiling water. Leave for 30 seconds, then refresh under cold water and slip off the skins. Cut the tomatoes in half, scoop out the seeds and cut out any
    white core, then roughly chop the flesh.

    Step 3

    Heat 2tbsp oil in a deep frying pan and cook the garlic briefly, so it just starts to colour around the edges. Add the tomatoes and a good pinch of salt and cook, mashing the tomatoes with a wooden spoon so they break apart for about 10 minutes, until you have a relatively smooth sauce. Add some freshly ground black pepper, the chilli flakes and more salt if necessary.

    Step 4

    For the mussels and clams, choose a large pan with a lid and put it on a high heat. Add 1tbsp oil, the mussels, clams and wine, and cover. Allow this to cook for a minute or so, giving it a gentle shake, until the shells just open. Remove from the heat, transfer the shellfish to a bowl and set aside, covered, but leaving the liquid in the pan.

    Step 5

    Return the pan to the heat and boil the liquid to reduce it slightly and cook off the alcohol. Add the tomato sauce and 1.2 litres water, and heat to make a delicately flavoured broth.

    Step 6

    Pat the scallops dry and season with salt on both sides. Heat a frying pan until very hot and add 1tbsp oil. Fry the scallops until they are nicely browned but have not become completely firm; this should take a couple of minutes on each side. Remove from the pan and set aside.

    Step 7

    Bring the broth to the boil and then add the white fish, parsley and some salt and pepper, turning down the heat to allow the fish to cook gently – this will take a minute or so. Add the scallops to the broth.

    Step 8

    To serve, divide the mussels and clams between 6 large soup plates and spoon over the broth and fish pieces. Rub the garlic on the toasted bread and drizzle with oil. Serve each bowl with bread and a large dollop of saffron mayonnaise.