Bagels arrived in New York with Polish immigrants in the late 19th century—first peddled in street carts on the Lower East Side within the Jewish community, then eventually becoming a beacon of Jewish culture in its new home. Today it’s the ultimate New York breakfast bread and known the world over.
The bagel’s signature crust and chewy texture come from boiling the dough rings briefly in a water bath (traditionally with lye or malt extract, but dark brown sugar is subbed here for ease), before baking in the oven. Some locals say its trademark flavour comes from New York City water—one reason why it’s rare to find a true copy anywhere else.
The “everything bagel”—coated in salt, dried onion, dried garlic, poppy seeds and sesame seeds (a combination of all the singular classics)—first appeared in the 1970s, and is now synonymous with New York, too.
This everything bagel recipe is an extract from EAT NYC by Yasmin Newman (Smith Street Books)
How to make everything bagels
Yield
Makes 8
Ingredients
Step 1
Place the water and yeast in the bowl of a stand mixer fitted with a dough hook and leave for 5 minutes, or until frothy.
Step 2
Add the flour, salt, and sugar and knead for 10 minutes to develop the protein in the dough; it will be smooth and elastic. Transfer to a lightly greased bowl, cover and set aside in a warm place for 1 hour, or until risen about one and a half times in size.
Step 3
Line two baking trays with baking paper. Divide the dough into eight even pieces, then roll each piece into a smooth ball. Divide the balls among the baking trays, cover with greased plastic wrap and rest for 30 minutes, or until slightly risen.
Step 4
Preheat the oven to 430ºF (220°C). Half-fill a large saucepan with water, add the extra sugar and bring to the boil.
Step 5
Using your finger, poke a hole through the center of each dough ball, then twirl the dough on your finger to stretch the hole until it’s 1½–2 in (4–5 cm) in diameter.
Step 6
Working in batches, carefully transfer two or three bagels to the boiling water. (To make transferring easier, cut the baking paper into squares around the bagels, then remove the paper from the water with tongs.)
