Chef Erchen Chang on how she likes to shop, cook and eat

The creative director of BAO tells Blanche Vaughan how her travels through Taiwan led her to co-found what is now a group of seven London restaurants with her husband and sister-in-law. She shares her favourite places to eat and shop in the capital, and reveals her go-to ingredient
Ash James

Where did your inspiration for opening the first BAO restaurant in London come from?

In 2012, when I'd just graduated from university, I returned to Taiwan for a road trip with Shing, my partner, and his sister Wai Ting. We all love cooking and making things with our hands, and when we were travelling, we talked about how to perfect the bao bun and achieve the ideal balance for this classic. Back in London, we started as pop-ups and soon settled in Netil Market, E8, where we built our first six-person shack. Our aim was to develop our own interpretations of cultures in Taiwan - from the street food and xiao chi houses to Asian late-night grill joints and beef noodle houses in Taipei.

What would your desert island ingredient be and what are the dishes you would use it in?

Garlic. It is so versatile, it works with seafood and it brings dishes to life. I can imagine having lots of grilled fish (if I manage to catch some) under the palm trees. Simply crush the garlic, rub it in the cavity of a fish and marinate for a moment before grilling. Or, slit the back of a prawn open, lay a layer of finely chopped garlic and olive oil or butter over it, then grill.

For someone who is unfamiliar with Taiwanese cooking, which recipe from your cookbook Bao would you recommend they try first?

Lu Rou Fan. The signature combination of pork, soy sauce and star anise transports me straight back to Taiwan - it is a great introduction to the flavours used in Taiwanese cooking. I recommend beginning by simply braising the pork and serving it over a bowl of steaming hot rice.

Carol Sachs

Are there any shops or websites that you particularly love visiting to source ingredients or items to use in the kitchen?

The last time I went to Osaka, in Japan, I visited the kitchen street and got a physical catalogue from the kitchenware specialist Ebisuya Maido. It's a massive book, as thick as the Yellow Pages, so whenever I needed something I would flick through the pages to find the kitchen utensils I was looking for, then order them via email. Now, you can buy from its dedicated website for overseas customers. At home in London, I often go to David Mellor, just off Marylebone High Street. I wish I could get every set of bone china crockery and silverware.

Where do you like to eat in London?

For years, my favourite has been 40 Malty Street. A humble wine bar under the railway arches in Bermondsey, it serves the tastiest seasonal food and natural wine in London. I also love Sweetings, an old-school seafood place in the heart of the City. Picture yourself perched on a stool at the wooden counter, drinking a Black Velvet from a silver tankard and eating fish pie presented on a linen placemat, surrounded by paintings of cheese and wine, in a room full of businessmen.

Tell me about one of your recent collaborations and how you have made the BAO brand reach beyond food into the worlds of art and design?

My favourite collaboration was our BAO and Friends pop-up at Dover Street Market, SW1, in January this year. We created a special kiosk installation and partnered with Simone Rocha and Carhartt WIP - brands that we have long admired - to create a range of limited-edition merchandise to celebrate the Year of the Dragon. At the opening night party, we served our sweet dragon-claw bao buns, which were filled with molten chocolate.