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Axel Vervoordt on where to shop, eat and stay in Antwerp
In the 16th century, Antwerp felt like the centre of the world, where merchants, architects, artists, musicians and patrons came together. You feel this rich history in the city's churches and museums today, and in some of the old houses that thankfully still exist. It seemed like it was my duty to protect some of these houses and restore them. In the late 1960s, that was not really appreciated; on the con-trary, the city council actively encouraged developers to destroy historic buildings and then replace them with new ones. I started my business by restoring a series of 16th-century houses, called the Vlaeykensgang. Now it is considered part of our heritage. As Antwerp is a port city, there have always been new influences and an artistic vibe, which I like a lot. There is a very good Royal Academy of Fine Arts and a thriving art scene with galleries, contemporary dance companies, theatre and music. I feel proud to be from Antwerp.
Where to visit
It is interesting to arrive in the city by train, because we have one of the most remarkable central stations in the world; it looks like a palace. Even if you do not travel by train, I do recommend going to see it before a walk round the centre to visit the Grand Place square and the majestic 16th-century town hall. The Cathedral has an impressive art collection, including works by Peter Paul Rubens. The Vlaeykensgang and the Museum Plantin-Moretus are also must-sees. The latter is housed in a magical 16th-century mansion, which was the home of an important printing and publishing family during Antwerp's Golden Age. The Museum Mayer van den Bergh is also worth visiting. One of my favourite areas is Cogels-Osylei. This street near the Antwerpen-Berchem station is full of characterful Belle Époque mansions and palaces - some Art Nouveau, some Neoclassical, others in eclectic styles. It is named after John Cogels and Edouard Osy, who were behind the development of this splendid residential area in the Zurenborg district at the turn of the 19th century.
Where to see art
Just outside the city centre, the Middelheim Museum is a sculpture park with works by Henry Moore, Rik Wouters, Alberto Giacometti and Auguste Rodin. The collection presents a fascinating overview of sculpture over the past 100 years and there are also surprising works by Per Kirkeby, Richard Deacon and a younger generation of sculptors. It is great to wander round the park, as every season has its own charm. There is a nice vibe in the southern part of the city around the recently reopened KMSKA fine arts museum, with many galleries for contemporary art in this area. St Paul's Church has a rich collection of 17th-century paintings by Flemish Masters, but is best known for the hundreds of sculptures. And the Calvary garden adjacent to the church is unique, with 63 statues depicting the last days of Christ. St Paul's also houses one of the most important organs in Flanders. The acoustics are great in the church and I would recommend attending one of the orchestral masses.
Where to eat and drink
Roji is a Japanese bistro in the cellars of De Cluse, a 16th-century house that we restored about 10 years ago. I was asked to design the interior and the restaurant has become a great hit in Antwerp. It is located next to the Vlaeykensgang, where my wife and I started our business in the late 1960s and early 1970s. Arte is another favourite. It is owned by a Sardinian/Belgian family and they serve Italian food in the best possible way - it's casual, authentic and real. I have recently done the interior of a Japanese-inspired restaurant with a great bar, also close to the Vlaeykensgang. It is called Tazu and serves superb sushi and cocktails. I never do it myself, but on a sunny day, many locals like to drink a fresh Bolleke (a local beer), on the terrace of one of the cafés like Den Engel or De 7 Schaken, right next to the town hall.
Where to stay
Hotel Julien is a small boutique hotel in the historic city centre with just 21 rooms owned by interior designer turned hotelier Mouche Van Hool. It is housed in two 16th-century buildings, formerly an auction house for stamps, and they have been sensitively restored into a quietly magnificent space with very comfortably modern bedrooms and a spa. Rooms cost from €179.
Where to shop
Het Modepaleis, the flagship store of Dries Van Noten, one of my favourite local designers and a close friend, is a must; his collections are inspired by artworks and the fabrics are so original. I love the intimate jewellery workshop in Kanaalowned by Catherine Rochtus, who makes unusual pieces influenced by nature. Whenever I visit, I cannot resist picking up a present for my wife. I tell visitors to avoid shopping in the Meir - the largest shopping area in Antwerp. In the early 20th century, it was the most significant street in the city and lined with historic palaces, but today it is occupied by major international retail chains and has lost its grandeur.